Bike hire on a full support cycling holiday: all you need to know!
9-minute read So, you've booked your cycling holiday and you're looking forward to riding some of the most epic and...
BIKE STUFF & KIT | 31/01/2017 | By Marmot Tours | 6 Minutes Read
With summer on the horizon and our training plans in full swing (well, for some of us anyway!), thoughts naturally turn to bikes and equipment choice.
Here at Marmot Tours we’ve seen thousands upon thousands of bikes on our trips over the years and have picked up a thing or two about what does or doesn’t work on mountain roads, and why.
In this article we’re going to focus purely on wheels, and the standard clincher type found on most road bikes.
We all see the pros riding their super-lightweight carbon bikes up and down the mountain passes at incredible speeds, but are carbon wheels the right choice for us mere-mortals?

Owing to its structure, carbon fibre cloth allows us to sculpt and shape complex 3D forms such as bicycle rims, which, made out of aluminium for instance, would be exceptionally heavy. Carbon rims make for a great hill-climbing wheel. The lightest form a rim can take is in tubular form, requiring the rider to glue his/her tyre to the rim. Lightweight sell a pair that weigh a total of 940g, for both wheels!
For more info on rolling resistance click here for a comprehensive list of tyre comparisons.

Wheels made from carbon fibre with an alloy braking surface (Shimano C24 for instance) tend to hold up better to delamination, but the alloy and carbon are still glued together, so are still susceptible to risk.

Unlike carbon rims which are more likely to crack (think rim-strike having ridden over a deep pot-hole), aluminium rims are more likely to dent, remaining rideable until a replacement can be sought. A heavily crashed carbon wheel will be somewhat of an unknown quantity with its potential damage hidden between layers of carbon, invisible to the human eye, where-as an alloy rim is easier to visually inspect.
Break a spoke and an alloy rim will bend. Break that same spoke on a carbon wheel however and all of that uneven tension will transfer onto the remaining spokes, stressing them heavily. Yes it will be laterally stiffer than an alloy wheel and therefore ‘look’ less damaged, but will it make it that 30km home?

We’d say that the ideal wheels to be ridden in the mountains would be a lightweight alloy set, with new and properly adjusted brake pads. For those who are particularly weight-concious, Shimano’s carbon-laminate wheels work exceptionally well and help lessen the weight ever-so slightly more, whilst still retaining the alloy braking surface.
In recent years, disc brakes have come to the fore and are now popping up on more and more bikes, road and otherwise. Ridding the bike of the usual clincher brake caliper allows the rider to use a wider tyre. The disc being centered on the wheel also keeps it away from the usual road dirt and grime, and the introduction of hydraulics to the mix allows the rider to benefit from predictable and controlled braking, whatever the conditions. For many, they are the inevitable evolution of braking, and right now with the UCI having just approved their use in professional racing again, they seem like the ultimate braking solution.
Ultimately, whichever wheels you choose to use, you should ensure that they are straight, round and true, and that you start your cycling holiday with brand-new pads. Daily maintenance is crucial to keep them clear of debris, as is the use of common sense when descending. If the conditions are poor, slow down, raise your line of sight and brake earlier.
Finally, for more info on the various types of carbon fibre, how it's used, its benefits and limitations, check out the video below from one of Australia's most well-respected carbon experts.
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